February Garden Tips

DSC_0247eWinter Sowing 101

Winter-Sowing 101
Making a Greenhouse & Sowing Seeds
What to Winter Sow and When
Transplanting Winter-Sown Seedlings

 

 


Last call!  If you are planting either a vegetable or a flower garden from seed this spring, early February is likely your last chance to get the widest selection from seed catalogs or quality seed company web sites.     

Time to send lawn movers to the repair shops for a tune-up before the shops get overwhelmed in March and April.  Remember that sharp blades do less damage to your grass.  If you are considering a new mower, keep in mind that rechargeable, battery-operated mowers need less maintenance and do just as good a job as gas-powered ones without the air or noise pollution. 

sharpen-the-tools-youll-need-for-your-spring-clean-up-eSharpen the garden tools you will need for your spring clean-up and gardening.  Once you’ve got out your sharpening kit, don’t stop with clippers and pruners.   Shovels and hoes are more efficient and save you work when the blades are clean and sharp. 

Clean up old chemicals.  Like food, garden chemicals have expiration dates.  “Old” products may have broken down and no longer be effective.  If you have bottles of weed killers or insecticides from last year (or years before), you should put them aside to go to the next local collection day for hazardous chemicals (usually held in the spring).  If you purchase new chemicals, always mark your purchase date prominently so you don’t use products that may no longer do the job, but could still pollute your environment. 

Out with the phosphates.  If you have an old bags of fertilizer in your garage or shed, it’s likin-massachusetts-its-now-illegal-to-use-fertilizers-containing-phosphorusely that it contains phosphates (that’s the middle number on a fertilizer container).  As of last year, phosphates may no longer be applied in Massachusetts unless the soil has been tested to show a real need for the chemical.  Why the ban?  Phosphates run off lawns and gardens, polluting streams, rivers, ponds, lakes and the ocean; causing a huge increase in vegetative growth to the detriment of the native plants and animals that live there.

Snap off the candles.  Do you want to keep your pines, firs or spruces dense and compact?  cutting-off-the-candles-or-new-growth-on-evergreens-will-result-in-a-denser-more-compact-tree-or-shrub-eThis is the month to snap off the ‘candles’ that will otherwise grow; extending branches out to areas where you may not want them to go.

If a soil test has shown your soil to be too acidic for growing a lawn, flowers or other plants, put down lime over snow now.  As the snow melts, the lime gradually moves into the soil.  Fireplaces ashes can be used but they must be spread thinly.  They are more alkaline than lime and can damage plants if applied heavily.

Salt Damage

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Winter Salting of roads and walks is a fact of life in our area and while it does promote safety it can be damaging to landscape plants.
Common Symptoms of Salt Injury:

  • Damage mostly on the side of the plant facing the road or sidewalk
  • Browning or discoloration of needles beginning at tips
  • Bud damage or death
  • Twig and stem dieback
  • Delayed bud break
  • Reduced or distorted leaf or stem growth
  • Witches’ broom development (tufted and stunted appearance)
  • Wilting during hot, dry conditions
  • Reduced plant vigor
  • Flower and fruit development delayed and/or smaller than normal
  • Fewer and/or smaller leaves than normal
  • Needle tip burn and marginal leaf burn
  • Discolored foliage
  • Nutrient deficiencies
  • Early leaf drop or premature fall color

Management Strategies for Mitigating Salt Injury include:

  • Reduce salt use.
  • Make applications carefully.
  • Protect plants with physical barriers.
  • Use salt tolerant plants in areas near roads,
    driveways, and sidewalks.

For more information on management and a table of the reported salt tolerance of selected trees and shrubs visit the following web page from which this information was
taken.

thForcing Branches to Bloom Indoors
The branches you choose will need to be at least 12  inches long and should have several tight but plump  buds on the branch. Carefully cut the branch away from  the parent shrub or tree with a sharp clean knife. You  may want to take a few more branches than you need,  just in case some fail to bloom properly indoors.

Once inside, the next step in forcing early flowering  branches is to first carefully split the base of the branch  about 4 inches up the branch and then trim an inch off  the base. Place the whole branch in warm water. If it is  not possible to submerge the whole branch, at the very  least the cut ends should be placed in warm water.

After the branches have soaked overnight, remove them  from the water and place them immediately into the  container or vase where they will be displayed. The  water in the container should be warm. Place the  flowering branches in a room that is 50 – 70 F. Forcing  flowering branches will be faster at higher temperatures but you will have better and longer lasting flowers if they  are kept at lower temperatures.

The flowering branches will need bright, indirect light in  order to bloom indoors properly. Direct light can be very  intense and may burn the branches or flowers.

The time it takes to force branches to bloom indoors can  be anywhere from one to eight weeks, depending on the  variety of flowering shrub or tree you are trying to force  and how close it was to blooming naturally outside.  Like any cut flower, you want to make sure that you  change the water in the container where you are forcing  branches to bloom often. This will help the flowers on the  branch last longer. Cool temperatures will also help keep  your flowering branch looking lovely longer. Some
branches to try are: pussy willows, forsythia,  serviceberry, lilac and redbud.
From: http://www.gardeningknowhow